Fine lines and wrinkles are a part of life, but, with the right ingredients, they don’t have to be a super noticeable part of your complexion if you don’t want them to be. While ingredients like peptides and niacinamide are associated with slight wrinkle reduction, the real winner is retinol. Maybe you’ve heard of it. Scratch that—of course you have. While the hero ingredient is shouted from the rooftops of almost every major skincare brand, not everyone knows what it is, or, more importantly, why it’s so effective at creating a younger-looking visage. To help uncover the facts, we chatted with a couple of the top dermatologists. Ahead you’ll discover everything you need to know about the holy grail anti-aging ingredient.

What is retinol?

While retinol is a coveted ingredient in the skincare world, it’s important to look at its origin to fully understand why it can so effectively turn back the clock on your complexion. According to board-certified dermatologist Dendy Engelman, M.D., retinol is the active form of vitamin A, which regulates collagen production and promotes skin repair in the body. By adding it into skincare products, cosmetic chemists can hack the way skin ages by replenishing the very ingredient that helps keep complexions radiant and youthful. 

How does retinol work?

When something seems too good to be true, it helps to know the details to decide whether or not you can trust in its promised results. According to Dr. Engelman, “retinoic acid (aka retinol and retinoids) is an extremely effective cell-communicating ingredient that can connect to almost any skin cell receptor site and tell it to behave like a healthy, younger skin cell.” What’s more, she explains, it also functions as an antioxidant, allowing it to repair free-radical damage—which is a major reason that skin shows signs of aging in the first place. 

What’s the difference between retinol, retinoid, and retin-A?

Here’s where it gets tricky. While retinol is the most-talked-about form of vitamin A, retinoids are where we should start. According to board-certified dermatologist and founder of Entière Dermatology Melissa Kanchanapoomi Levin, M.D., retinoids are essentially a basic umbrella term for both over-the-counter retinols and prescription retinoids, and scientific studies back this up. “Retinols, which are readily available over-the-counter, contain a lower concentration of the active retinoic acid ingredient than retinoids,” she says. Additionally, she says that prescription retinoids have a much higher concentration of the active ingredient so therefore are more readily available for the skin to use, which is why most dermatologists recommend retinoids (not retinol) for heavy-hitting rejuvenation. 

As a result of their concentration levels, retinol and retinoid affect the skin differently. According to Dr. Levin, while retinol and retinoid have the same goal and purpose, “retinol works more gradually compared to the retinoid treatments prescribed by a dermatologist due to their difference in molecular structure and how they are processed in the skin.” This means that while you might notice eye-catching retinoid results in a matter of days, it could take weeks to notice a change from retinol.

Then there’s retinoic acid or tretinoin. The prescription-only ingredient is the most active form of vitamin A, not to mention the fastest acting. “Biochemically, retinoid and retinol, do the same thing—it may just take longer to see results with retinols, since they are weaker,” Dr. Engelman says.

Is retinol good for your skin?

There’s a reason why everyone and their mother swears by retinol—it gets the job done. And by job, we mean increasing collagen production, reducing collagen breakdown, accelerating skin cell turnover, improving discoloration, hydrating skin, and even reducing acne. In other words, it truly is a hero ingredient. Of course, if you ask someone with sensitive skin, they may say otherwise. That’s because, as Dr. Engelman points out, retinol is known to cause dryness, redness, and irritation when first introduced into a routine. However, if you stick to finding a way to keep at it, pretty much any dermatologist will tell you it will be worth it. Dr. Engelman says that with continued usage of this ingredient over time, you can see an improvement in fine lines and wrinkles, texture, and tone as it strengthens the skin barrier.

The post Retinol 411: a deep dive into skincare’s hero anti-aging ingredient appeared first on MyMedicPlus.

In the last decade, the skincare industry has gotten really…complicated. Remember the days of the iconic three-step (three!) cleansing, toning and moisturizing system? Maybe an Oxy pad haphazardly swiped across a forehead here and there, during particularly trying periods. It was a simpler time.

These days, thanks in large part to social media and the limitless portal of information that is the internet, it appears as though the entire online skincare community has adopted the jargon and vocabulary of a seasoned dermatologist. Ten-step routines, filled with an array of active ingredients, have become the norm. Impressive but, yet again, complicated.

But whether you’re a skincare minimalist or maximalist, swear by the bible that is Reddit’s  or prefer to just wing it on your own, there are certain ingredients that make up a common ground—regardless of skin philosophy. They’re the ones that are found in the bulk of the products on the market, have been studied thoroughly over the years and are proven to, you know, work.

We tapped the pros to find out, once and for all, how (and when and why) to use the five basic skincare ingredients that you’ll come across in your skincare regimen, no matter how simple or complex it may be.

Hyaluronic Acid

What is it? 

There’s no better place to kick off skincare school than with the crème de la crème of hydration: hyaluronic acid. The substance, which is naturally found in our skin, is a humectant (meaning it draws in moisture from its surroundings) and can hold up to 1,000 times its weight in water.

What does it do?

“It replenishes the amounts [of naturally occurring hyaluronic acid in your skin] that have been lost due to photoaging and sun damage to allow for a firmer, youthful appearance,” says Jessica Burman, Founder of Cocoon Apothecary.“It’s known for increasing hydration levels to plump up fine lines and heal dry, flaky skin.”

It can also be used in injectable form, like Restylane Skinboosters, says Dr. Lisa Kellett, dermatologist at DLK on Avenue. Those “results can last up to one year because of the direct delivery into the skin.”

Retinol

What is it?

A form of synthetic vitamin A, retinol is considered the gold standard when it comes to over-the-counter anti-aging ingredients. It speeds up the process of sloughing off dead skin cells, so it’s useful if you’re looking to target anything from fine lines to dark spots, as well as other signs of aging.

How should retinol be used?

This one’s a bit of a doozy. “Typically the skin needs time to acclimate to products that contain retinol,” explains Ursula Diaz, co-founder of skincare company Honor MD. “To avoid common irritation associated with products that contain retinol (like redness and dryness) we recommend patients start using it one to two times per week (at night, since it can cause sun sensitivity) and to gradually increase usage as tolerated. The goal should be every night or every night.”

Alpha hydroxy Acids (AHAs)

What are they?

Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) are a class of chemical exfoliators that dissolve the bonds between skin cells, allowing you to slough away the dead skin cells that sit on top of your skin—gross, we know. The most well-known, and well-researched, of the bunch are lactic acid and glycolic acid, which are typically derived from milk and sugarcane, respectively, though vegans shouldn’t fret, since most lactic acid found in skincare these days is synthetically derived.

How should they be used?

Nighttime use is best, as they can be irritating—especially glycolic acid, the less gentle of the two. Dr. Kellett advises to opt for a serum over a mask or cleanser, both of which have less time on skin to work their exfoliating magic. And while the ideal percentage of glycolic acid is highly dependent upon your tolerance and skin type, when it comes to lactic acid, you’ll want to look for 5 to 10% for topicals, and 10 to 20% in peels, she says.

Vitamin C 

What is it?

Easily the most well-known antioxidant in skincare, vitamin C (also known as L-ascorbic acid) is an absolute must for brightening your overall skin tone, lightening acne scars and dark spots and providing skin with a shield-like layer of protection from pollution and particulate matter (tiny particles in the air like pollen and dust). Fun fact: Vitamin C is actually the number-two rising Google search for all face care topics worldwide (right behind retinol). So if you haven’t already, it’s time to get acquainted with this powerhouse.

How should it be used? 

Once daily is enough, says Dr. Kellett, but whether you use it in the morning or at night depends on what other products and ingredients you’re using. For example, you definitely won’t want an oil-based cleanser to block your water-based vitamin C serum from absorbing into skin—a good rule of thumb when using any combination of oil-based and water-based products, of course, but especially with (usually) pricey vitamin C serums—you don’t want to waste any of this gold.

It’s also a good idea to avoid using vitamin C at the same time as exfoliants like retinol, BHAs and AHAs, which can sometimes lead to redness, flaking and irritation, and is why most people tend to use a vitamin C serum in the morning, and other chemical exfoliants in the evening. Bonus: Layering a vitamin C serum under your sunscreen during the day adds extra protection from the sun’s UV rays, pollution, dust and more. Remember that shielding ability we mentioned above? Trust us—you want to take advantage of it.

Salicylic Acid 

What is it? 

“Salicylic acid is a chemical exfoliant that is sourced from willow tree bark,” explains Burman. The beta-hydroxy acid is especially useful for those with oily or acne-prone skin, as its small molecular size allows it to get deep into the skin and dissolve the pore-clogging debris that lead to acne, blackheads and whiteheads.

How should it be used?

It can be used daily, but because it is a chemical exfoliant and can potentially be irritating, Dr. Kellett suggests avoiding using it with other keratolytics [like trichloroacetic acid and Allantoin] and alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs like glycolic and lactic acid).

The post The 5 Most Common Skincare Ingredients—and How to Actually Use Them appeared first on MyMedicPlus.

In the world of anti-aging ingredients, there are few that can compete with or compare to retinol, the undisputed gold standard among dermatologists. And for good reason: retinoids have been proven to be highly effective time and time again, helping to both speed cell turnover on the outer layers of the skin, while also stimulating collagen production in the deeper layers. Translation: Clearer, more even skin and fewer wrinkles. So why isn’t everyone and their mother using a retinoid? Largely because along with all of that potency comes the potential for some seriously irritating—and unsightly—side effects, namely redness, flaking, and dryness. It also breaks down when exposed to sunlight, not to mention isn’t safe to use during pregnancy.

That’s why bakuchiol is the latest anti-aging ingredient garnering lots of buzz. Derived from a plant native to India and Sri Lanka, it’s been used for centuries in Ayurvedic and Chinese medicine, despite the fact that it’s just now becoming a mainstream skincare ingredient. Why the lag time? Scientists have only recently discovered that it may be comparable to retinol. Despite the fact that the two have very different molecular structures, “bakuchiol has antioxidant properties that make it similar to retinol,” explains cosmetic chemist Perry Romanowski. “This is what prompted scientists to investigate how the two would compare,” he adds.

The results? According to a recent study published in the British Journal of Dermatology, bakuchiol and retinol had similar effects when it came to decreasing wrinkles and hyperpigmentation. “It’s hard to make conclusions about bakuchiol because this was a small study, but the evidence points to them being comparable,” Romanowski says. The big difference between the two? The newbie proved to be much less irritating. Couple that with the fact that it won’t break down in the sun and is generally safe to use during pregnancy (though it’s always a good idea to check with your doc) and bakuchiol is poised to give retinol a run for its money. Curious to give it a try? Find it in these five products.

1. sephora
   
   Ole Henriksen Glow Cycle Retin-ALT Power Serum
   Since bakuchiol won’t be rendered inactive by the sun, it’s totally fine to make it part of your daytime routine. Try this multi-tasking day serum, which does everything from fade dark spots to minimize pores. Plus, the subtle lavender tint brightens dull skin on the spot, perfect when you want a little instant gratification.

2. alpynbeauty.com
Alpyn Beauty Plant Genius Moisturizer
This line relies on a whole host of plant-based active ingredients, so it’s no surprise that bakuchiol is one of them. It’s coupled with hydrating ceramides and squalane, which melts into skin, leaving it with a perfectly velvety finish. Oh, and it layers beautifully under makeup, too.

3. herbivorebotanicals.com

Herbivore Bakuchiol Retinol Alternative Smoothing Serum
Bakuchiol is paired with uber-gentle PHAs (polyhydroxy acids) to help minimize wrinkles and exfoliate, leaving your complexion smooth and glowing. Bonus points for the very pleasing jelly-like texture and pretty purple hue.

4. twinmedix.com

TwinMedix Pro:Refine Eye Corrector
The delicate skin around your eyes is thin and where signs of aging tend to show up first. Fight pesky crow’s feet with this treatment that contains bakuchiol, hydrating sodium hyaluronate, and vitamin B5.

5. isdin.com

Isdin Melatonik 3-in-1 Night Serum
Bedtime bakuchiol for the win. This p.m. powerhouse boosts elasticity and firmness, but the formula also helps undo the day’s damage. Melatonin and vitamin C fight free radicals caused by exposure to UV rays and pollution.

The post Bakuchiol Is the All-Natural Anti-Aging Alternative to Retinol appeared first on MyMedicPlus.